Sunday, April 4, 2010

South Swell

It's Seth in the Lavatube

I got to take Seth out to catch a wave while back home in Hawai`i. Despite growing up on an island even despite being an a lava tube (see above) he'd never caught a wave on a boogie board, or any sort of board. Fortunately the tail end of a swell was in the cards on the last day of his trip. He'd change at the Zippy's and jump on a plane for SF. Days before I showed him a little about body boarding.

Sandy's 6 Days Earlier:

South Swell

The shore-pound at Sandy's on the first day of the swell were easily 4-6 feet with a few big ones breaking on the outside. There were a ton of people in the water and on the beach and the weather was absolutely perfect.

This guy was always on top of the big clean ones. Good wave selection and always tucked into the right places at the right times.

The body surfers were also out for the action.

Bottom Turn
More than a five head. Solid 4 footer in the ole days.

We caught the tail end of this swell, an early spring surprise for the townies. I caught a look on Seth's face that I recognized from my first wave: disbelief. Not only was he surprised this worked, but that he in fact suddenly understood how it worked.

1 comment:

Dave Eriksen said...

Oh yeah! Sandys is the place to pop your boogie board cherry. I recognize that look of disbelief when "you get it."

Sad thing is that the Mainland doesn't have waves as perfect for boogie board newbs as in Hawaii. The year following losing my B-board cherry, I searched SoCal from Oceanside to San Diego. I did find some good waves, but none came close to the shape and dynamics of the waves at Sandys.

--Dave Eriksen